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We are a family owned and operated kennel & farm. 

We breed Red, Black, Yellow, and Chocolate Labradors. 

We breed 100% Purebred Boer Goats, commercial and ABGA registered.  In the near future we will also be breeding Exotic Shorthair Cats.

Please enjoy our website and contact us if you have questions!

About Us...

We raise our dogs as family pets.  They live indoors with us and are a part of our family.  

We breed for beautiful yellow, chocolate, black, and fox red puppies.  The fox red will be ACA registered. Any litter sired by our male, Red will be ACA registered as there was not enough background information on him to get him AKC dual registered.  Our other puppies are AKC registered,

Reds are $1,500. Regular colored (black, chocolate, & yellow) puppies are $1,250. Our puppies come from nice breeding stock. They are raised IN-HOME, they are socialized daily (all of the time), they have constant care and supervision.  You get breeder support and become family!

All puppies come with their first distemper shot in the series and are de-wormed at 2, 4, 6, & 8 weeks.   They are vet checked and come with a 1 year genetic guarantee.

Our puppies are raised indoors in our living room. They are socialized from day one and until the day they leave. We breed for mentally and physically sound dogs.  We expose our puppies to different experiences such as the vacuum, gun shots, loud noises, etc to have well rounded and out going dogs for you to add to your family.  I am home with the dogs all day long and concentrate on their socialization and care. When they are a bit older, we expose them to being outside.  We have a heated and cooled building where they are taught how to use a doggy door.  This helps to teach them to go potty outside.  

We bring these puppies into the world and are responsible for them.  As a puppy buyer, you are part of the Osman Lab family.  We give you advice and breeder support and are here for you and our dogs.  If for any reason you cannot keep your dog, they are always welcome to come back to us. We NEVER want to see one of our puppies go to a shelter!  

We strongly urge people to find a breeder and to be patient and wait for a puppy if you like their past puppies and practices.  You need to use a breeder that you can trust.  We have references.

We do not keep business hours.  Feel free to email us anytime or call within normal hours (after 9 am and before 10 pm) to ask any questions you may have.  Please do not just show up at our home.  Yes, this has happened.  We have a private residence and do not keep business hours.  Whether you wish to see our dogs or not, we are NOT ok with you just showing up. We do NOT allow visitors to see our dogs and puppies due to their safety as well as disease.  

As our family is growing with our kids getting married and having their own kids, we have downsized a bit with our dogs.  Breeding, when done right, consumes a ton of time.  We miss all kinds of functions because we can't leave our dogs and puppies.  3/4 of our kids are Active Duty Air Force and are stationed all over the US.  We need to be able to go and visit our kids and grandkids and have decided to cut back some so we are able to do so.  We will still be breeding, just on a smaller scale.  We currently have 3 females and 1 male and will only be having a few litters per year.  

Our indoor set up:

Our puppies are whelped in our living room.  We stay at their side until they are done having puppies and we assist when needed.  The puppies are put on a heating pad and under a heating lamp in a basket while the mama dog focuses on having the rest of her puppies.  We do not leave their side.  When we are sure that they are done having puppies, we clean everyone up, change the blankets and get mama and puppies settled in together.  I sleep next to the box for several nights to make sure mama and puppies are doing well.  We miss family functions, birthday parties, some holidays, appointments, etc. to make sure we are with our Mamas and puppies when they need us most. 

We do not have a huge house, but we love our dogs and our puppies.  They are literally raised smack in the middle of our living room. This allows us to have constant contact with them and for them to get used to the everyday noises of a household. This also allows us to monitor each and every puppy to make sure they are healthy. Collars are put on them at birth so that we can tell them apart and monitor their health and weight from day one.  They get constant individualized attention and care. Their blankets are cleaned at least daily, if not more.  Their whelping boxes are sanitized as well.  We are the only ones who handle the puppies at this age for their own safety and well being.  They are weighed often and their individual pictures are taken weekly.

Our "outdoor" set up:

We have a designated area for the puppies for when they are about 4-5 weeks old until they leave at 8 weeks old.  We decide each litter when they are ready to start learning to use a dog door, etc. (there is no set age we go by)  The building they are in is heated for the winter, so they are never cold, regardless of the time of year. We also have it cooled for summer. They are not put out in the area and forgotten about...they still get constant attention and care.  We pride ourselves in knowing each puppy individually by the names that you give them, and making sure that each and every one of them is outgoing and well rounded before they leave us.  By teaching them how to use the doggy door, they learn to potty outside before they leave.  This does not mean that they will not have accidents in your home, but this gives them a good start.  This also helps teach them not to go potty where they sleep and stay.  Thus far, every puppy has been trained to go outside via the dog door to potty outside before they've gone to their new homes.  Being indoors and outdoors also helps them get used to different experiences so they are not afraid of different environments. 

Their outdoor area has an insulated indoor part as well as an outdoor covered area that keeps them safe from birds of prey and predators.  Both the indoor section and outdoor section can be arranged and rearranged to accommodate several litters if needed.  

When they are a bit too young to be out and using the doggy door, they are put in the puppy pen in the yard for fresh air on nice days.  It gets them used to the grass and the outdoors, but they are only out for a short amount of time and then brought back in to their whelping box. 

Pictures and Updates:

I love to take pictures of the puppies.  I update you at least once a week with pictures of your puppy as he/she grows! I put them on the Facebook page "Osman Labs One Big Dog Family" that you can join after your deposit is made. if you are on Facebook you can pull them right off of there and save them if you wish.  If you do not have Facebook, I can text them to you or email them if needed.  I also put random shots of the litter and cute random pictures on the Facebook page as well....so if you are on Facebook, please like the page -OSMAN LABS so that you can see the pictures! Once you have a deposit down or have one of our puppies, you can ask to join our private Facebook page "Osman Labs One Big Dog Family".  On this page you can share pictures of your pup, talk to other owners, ask advice, questions, etc. 

We love taking pictures of our puppies weekly for you all to see.  We got this cool rustic background for the pics from www.stikwood.com.  It's real wood with a sticky peel off backing.  So easy to install and it looks so cool!

These are just a few reviews from our happy families! All of the reviews are posted on our Facebook page "Osman Labs".

This isn't a great picture of me, but it's reality! When we have mamas in labor (or even close to it) we don't leave the house.  We stay by their side to make sure that they are ok, and that their delivery is smooth.  I'm up for days on end sometimes....and even after the pups are born, I spend several nights sleeping by their side to make sure they are ok! We've missed family functions, weddings, birthday parties, etc. to stay at home to be near our puppies and mamas.  It's a lifestyle and commitment for sure!


When we say our puppies sell quickly, it is not a sales tactic.  Every litter that we've had thus far has sold by the time the puppies are 2 weeks old, if they aren't already spoken for at birth.  We have never had puppies available for sale after that time frame.   

We do have waiting lists in place, and will take deposits on a case by case basis.  It depends on different factors such as how long you're willing to wait, our anticipated time frames, etc.  Contact us to talk about the possibility of getting on a list.  (It does require a non-refundable deposit of $250, but that does go towards the price of the puppy.)


Visitation: I've been asked numerous times if people can come visit their puppy. The short answer is no. Here is why... 

The puppies are not vaccinated until they are about 7 weeks old. Having people come here to see them brings in germs and outside things that we do not want to expose our puppies to. Are we saying that they would get sick for sure? No....but there is a chance that they could and that's not a chance we are willing to take. For example...right now as I'm writing this,  we have 17 puppies here. That's 17 families from 17 different places, that's a lot of germs that can be transmitted in. Parvo can come from anywhere and it can kill!  Our main concern is the health of all of our puppies. It's just not worth the chance. Plus, there is my sanity as well! If we scheduled 17 different families to come visit their puppies, we would have no lives. It's a lot of work taking care of a litter, let alone multiple litters and we want to concentrate on the care and well being of the puppies rather than allowing people to visit. I know you are all excited about getting your pups...and that makes us very happy! Let us care for them and set them up for the first 8 weeks of their lives, and you'll have the rest of their lives with them to love on them and care for them. Thank you for understanding.

Guarantees:  When you pick up your puppy, you are required to sign a contract stating that you picked your puppy up and that it indeed is a healthy puppy. That contract also states that they have a 1 year health guarantee against major congenital defects.

Keep in mind, we cannot control what happens when you leave with your pup and it is out of our hands as to what they are exposed to.  We stand behind the genetic health of the pups (within reason). So if at 6 months old to a year old, your vet says that "Fido" has bad hips and will have problems all of his life and its without a doubt due to genetics of the breeding, contact us and we will discuss the options of replacing your puppy.  We will NOT give money back and will NOT pay your vet bills.  However, we have to have ample proof from a licensed vet that there are huge GENETIC issues within the first year, we will replace your dog with another puppy. (and you can still keep your dog, we would never ask to take your pet back from you).  

Understand, dogs are like people.  Some have seasonal or food allergies.  That is out of our control. They are individuals and some just have these things, some don't. This is to not fault of our own or our breeding practices.  We will gladly give advice to help you, but we are not licensed veterinarians.  We give you breeder support if you have questions on these types of things.  This is not grounds for replacing your puppy. 

We are easy to work with....If you have questions, please ask ahead of time! Thanks!  

If you can't keep your dog:Please contact us and we will take the dog back or help you find it a new PROPER FOREVER home.  We do not want any of our dogs to end up in shelters or in the wrong hands.  I have 20+ years of experience in rescue and screening people for a good home. When the puppy goes home, there is a contract that you must sign agreeing to bring the puppy back if you can no longer keep it.  We do NOT want our dogs in shelters.

Waiting List Information

It is at our discretion if & when we have our waiting lists open.  It honestly depends on timing of heat cycles, how many families we have already waiting, etc.  If you are willing to wait as long as needed, we may be willing to take a deposit for our waiting list.  It will be considered on a case by case basis.  

Here is how it works:

A non-refundable deposit of $250 is due to be on the waiting list.  I will keep you updated when it gets close to your spot on the list with an upcoming litter.  When the litter is born, if I have a puppy for you, another $250 is due to hold a spot in that litter.  The balance is due on or before pick up.  Pick up is at our home in Central Pennsylvania.  You are contacted in order of the list so everything is kept fair.  If you told me you wanted a black male when signing up for the list, and I don't have any black males, you are still contacted to see if you'd like to make a different choice.  I do NOT skip over you.  You are "waiting in line" and I will offer you what I have available.  You can choose a different color or gender or you can choose to wait until the next litter.  

We also have an awesome community built on Facebook. After joining our list, or buying a puppy from us, you can ask to join our private page "Osman Labs One Big Dog Family" on Facebook and keep in touch with everyone.  I update a lot there about upcoming litters and weekly puppy pics as well!  You can ask questions, post pics, etc.  

If you have questions, please ask! 

We promise you....they are worth the wait!

About Silver & Charcoal


Update 8/11/21 - We are not currently breeding for silver or charcoal labs at this time.  We have retired both of our females and don't plan to breed for these colors for quite some time, or at all, we just aren't sure yet. 

Please educate yourself, and read the info below.  Silvers especially, have a lot of allergy issues.......food and environmental.  They, as well as all "blue colored" breeds, tend to have more issues.

There is a lot of stigma surrounding the silver (& charcoal) Labrador debate.  Just like with anything else, everyone has an opinion on everything. There is negative talk out there about dilute colored labradors. This includes the silver, champagne, white, fox red, and charcoal. Be assured that these dogs are as pure to the breed as the most common black, yellow, and chocolate colors.

When it comes to registering a dilute colored Labrador with AKC, UKC, and ACA, etc they are registered according to their “foundation” genetic color. Charcoals are registered to black, silver to chocolate,  champagne to yellow, white to yellow, & fox red to yellow. Silver labs have a chocolate coat as the base & charcoal labs have a black coat as the base. When you look closely you see chocolate fur, it’s just dilute in color. Same with the charcoal, you can see the black hairs in the coat. So just know, when you buy a silver lab, they are
registered as chocolates & charcoal as black.

In regards to the silver color, you will hear people say they are mixed with Weimaraner. They are NOT. Let me tell you, I’ve had some rude comments when listing puppies with those die hard “there are only 3 lab colors” people. Talk about rude. They call them muts, weim mixes, greyhounds, etc. They say that silver breeders “lie” to register them. All untrue. AKC has stated in writing, that the colors are supposed to be registered as their foundation color. You can not show these colors, however. Just like the Merle Great Dane. It doesn’t make then any less of a Dane, AKC just doesn’t allow you to show them. 

Although these uneducated people and their uneducated opinions anger me, I am not going to argue with them as it’s a waste of my time. Everyone is going to have an opinion they think is right and there’s no changing their minds.

On the flip side, I have people tell me how gorgeous my dogs are and people pay top dollar for silvers & charcoals. They are exotic in their looks. You get the beautiful silver color which is so unique.

My point of this little rant is to educate you. You may have people try to tell you otherwise, I’ve done my research. It’s all in genetics. Genetics is a complicated thing, but the bottom line is that silver & charcoal Labradors are pure Labrador, just dilute in color.  


The pictures below are of our past puppies. 

On the left is a charcoal puppy, on the right is a silver puppy. 

Our Gracie Mae had 16 puppies for us at one time! She had a gorgeous litter of silver and charcoals.  She has been retired and is living the life down South with our son and his family.  <3


CHECK OUT OUR PUPPY- BORN HERE AT OSMAN LABS....MAX. Max was born here at OSMAN LABS and is 100% labrador!  He is out of a silver Mom (who kept climbing the fence) and a RED Dad.  (Scarlett x Red).  He was bred here, born here and raised here...he is PURE LAB....aren't genetics awesome?? He is black with brindle markings!!!!  Max lives with our son and his family down South.  He's definitely one of a kind!

Fox Red Labs


Our fox red female


Our fox red male

We will breeding for fox red puppies sometime in 2021/2022.  These pups will be ACA registered. If you've read my rant on the silver page, you'll get how I feel about people saying that there is no such thing as any other color labs except black, yellow, and chocolate.  They are ignorant saying so in the fact that they have not done their research.  Fox reds, like silver & charcoal, are pure bred labs. It's all in the genetics. 

Our Breeding Dogs

Our dogs are our family.  We are not a puppy factory and only breed when it's safe and okay for our dogs. Their health and well being is priority.  When you join our waiting list, or our puppy family, you have to understand that their heat cycles and if they breed is all out of our control.  We have a gorgeous yellow lab, Nelli, who started this all...she is retired and is living with us as a pet.  We plan to add a few more females to our breeding line up in the near future!


Georgia is such a gorgeous girl!  She's from a gorgeous Mom, "Miss Money Penny" & an awesome stud, "Rusty Big Revenue".  She will be paired with our gorgeous red male when she is of breeding age.


Holly is one of our past puppies.  Her mama, Piper, was a beautiful black female and her sire is Kason, a nice chocolate male.  She has a great build and a beautiful yellow (almost white) coloring.  She throws big gorgeous pups when bred to Red! We will be repeating that breeding.


Nala is one of our puppies that we kept out of Nelli's very last litter.  She is a gorgeous chocolate and we cannot wait to have her as a part of our family and eventually add her to our breeding program. 


Red is ACA registered. He will be our fox red stud male. Red is out of a red dam and red champion sire.  His sire is PenHip Certified. We have added Red to our breeding program to start producing fox red puppies in 2021. We currently do NOT offer stud services. There is just too much involved and we have chosen not to offer this service.

Available Puppies

No available puppies at this time.

Please check our Facebook page, Osman Labs for the latest updates and photos, as well as availability.  Even if you don't have Facebook, the page is public and you should be able to view it.  

Thank you!

Upcoming/Planned Litters


We plan to breed Holly with Finn for her next litter.  When bred to Red, she has absolutely GORGEOUS yellow pups with a big build and red tint.  This time, we plan to breed her to Finn again (like we did our first litter), in hopes that she will produces some chocolates and variety of colors for the waiting list.  She should go into heat at the end of this year or beginning of nex.t.

Nala x Red

Nala had a litter with Red in May 2021 and they had some gorgeous black and yellow puppies.  We plan to repeat this breeding the next time she is in heat. 

Georgia x Red

We are waiting to see if Georgia is indeed pregnant, we should know soon and if so, she would be due end of August/beginning of September.  We do have a waiting list for these puppies to fulfill. 

Past Puppies

Pictures of our past silver/charcoal puppies are on the silver/charcoal page. 

Why We Do What We Do...

Many people think that because you breed dogs, you do it for the money. If you properly care for the puppies from birth to 8 weeks, you really do not make much money at all...and if there is a sick pup or a difficult whelping, you may even be in the "red". We do not breed our dogs to make a quick buck.  

We spend countless sleepless nights if any of our females are in labor or showing signs of being close to giving birth.  We continue to stay with them by their side through the labor and delivery process, as well as when the puppies are first born.  We've spent countless nights sleeping beside the whelping box to make sure everyone is ok.  There is also heart break at times when a puppy comes out not breathing and we are unable to resuscitate. Breeding is definitely not easy and not for the weak at heart.

I used to be a veterinary technician for many years. I know how to properly care for the health of my dogs. Also, being in that field of work, you see many dogs who are afraid of their own shadow or who are vicious because they are scared or aggressive. Our mission is to breed for well-rounded healthy dogs, both physically and mentally. Our puppies are exposed to loud noises, vacuuming, gun shots, indoors, outdoors, etc.  We expose them to everyday life so that when they leave us, they have a good start. 

Also, the pictures on this page are why we do what we do! People ask us all the time how we are able to give up these adorable puppies at 8 weeks old. This is why. The love and happiness they bring to other families. We have witnessed tons of families seeing their puppies in person for the first time. We've seen adorable kids surprised by a puppy they had no idea they were getting. We have seen a gentleman hold his Father’s Day gift and melt when the little pup licked his face. We see teenage kids happy & adults happy. This is why we do what we do. ❤️ Thank you to all of you families who have entrusted us to raise your future family member for you for the first 8 weeks. We produce these dogs for them to be perfect members of your family! They grow up with kids, or in a home where they are the "kid". We love to watch our puppies grow through pictures and updates and we absolutely love to see pictures of them in their new homes with their families!

THIS is why we breed! YOU are why we breed!

Osman Livestock

Boer Goats

We have expanded our little farm and are now breeding Boer Goats.  Boer goats are meat goats.  We breed them for their babies, and will have both ABGA registered and also commercial (non registered) goats available for sale hopefully later in 2021. 

OUr Boer Goats

-Breeding Stock-


She was named after my favorite Mustang! ha!  She is a sweet girl and shes our only boer without horns. She is a commercial doe.  She was born Jan 2020 and is of breeding age. She will give us some beautiful kids!


She was born around July 2020. She is a commercial doe.  She is very sweet and we can't wait to see what kids she gives us!


Buttercup is a traditional doe.  She is registerable and we are working on getting her paperwork.  She was born April 2020 and is ready to breed.  We can't wait to see her kids!


Paisley is a traditional doe with a black head.  She is 100% boer and is commercial.  She was born December 2020 and will be bred when she's of age!


Penelope is 100% boer, commercial doe. She was born around December 2020. She will be bred when old enough!


Phoebe was born in March 2021.  She is ABGA registerable, we are just waiting to get her papers. She will be bred when she is of age. She is a super sweet girl!


Iris is a beautiful black and white female.  She just had a baby July 2021, and it's a beautiful little girl!  She's a great mama.  She is ABGA registered.


Dahlia is a beautiful female out of great breeding stock.  She is super sweet and friendly and we adore her.  She was the first baby born on our farm!


Dottie is a beautiful commercial dapple female.  She's very sweet and we can't wait to see what she produces for us.   


Born May 2020, he is 100% pure boer buck.  He comes from an impressive lineage and is a gorgeous red and white dapple male.  He is ABGA registered and DNA tested.  He is our main stud male.  We cannot wait to see his babies!!!

Available Goats for Sale

None at this time, please keep checking back! We are trying to build our herd and hope to have babies available in the near future!

Exotic Shorthair Kitties

Exotic Shorthair Cats are a wonderful breed.  They call them the "lazy man's Persian" due to the fact that they have the look and build of a person, but with short hair!  They have squishy adorable faces and are super loving.  The Exotic Shorthair is a breed of cat developed as a short-haired version of the Persian. The Exotic is similar to the Persian in many ways, including temperament and conformation, a flat nose and face with the exceptions of the short dense coat. 

We plan to breed them in the future when they are old enough and we find the perfect male to add to our family.  This breed of cat can be very expensive to buy.  They can cost up to $3,000 or more! Our cats are from registered breeding stock, but we opted to not get the registration papers.  Registration doesn't honestly matter to those who just want family pets.  We plan to breed for AFFORDABLE kittens for the average family.  Prices will most likely be somewhere abetween $800-$1200 depending on color.  We will decide closer to the time and set pricing.  


Mona is an exotic short hair female.  She is a loving family pet and has a great personality.  We adore her!


Maggie is a beatuiful exotic shorthair female.  She is super loving and snuggly and we love having her in our family!


Marlee is an exotic shorthair female.  We are so happy to have her. She's super playful and loving. 


Mila is our brand new addition. She is an exotic short hair.  I saw her and had to have her!  


There are a ton more reviews on our Facebook page "Osman Labs"

Helpful Links & Advice

Socialization, training, consistency, and having a schedule is key!  Puppies need a routine in order to learn what we expect of them. 

Socialization- The more you expose your puppy to different scenarios, the better off your puppy will be.  AFTER they are vaccinated, take them places, introduce them to people (young and old), introduce them to dogs and cats, etc.  The more they are familiar with, the better off they are.

Loud noises- Run the vacuum (they'll learn you won't suck them up lol), take them to fireworks, have them out near a lawn mower...noise is great!  The more used to noises they are, the less fear they will have later!!!!

Experience- This goes hand in hand with socialization and the noise thing.  The more you expose your puppy to, the more well rounded of a dog you'll have.  Take them on car rides, NOT just to the vet.  Get them used to going places.  Go fun places too, so they enjoy the ride.

Paws, Teeth, Body- Messing with their paws from day one helps.  Touching them, acclimating the pup to a brush, touching their hind quarters and legs, etc will all help you in the long run.  Use positive reinforcement when they behave the way you want them to!  We do clip their nails from very early on, but if you don't continue to at least mess with their paws like you're going to clip them, they won't continue to allow it.  By teaching them that this is a good experience, you'll have an awesome dog! 

Feeding/Table Scraps/Weight- Puppies are adorable, and yes, you think you are showing them love by giving them human food...this isn't a good habit to start.  It teaches them to beg, but more importantly, it can harm them in the long run.  Labs can get FAT, easily.  It's not cool to say "my lab weighs 160 lbs".  No lab should weigh 160 lbs.  The more weight your dog carries, the harder it is on their joints and can cause harm to their overall health.  You're better off if you never start this bad habit at all!  We feed our dogs (puppies 2x a day) once a day.  They get 4 cups in the morning and do great that way.  Yes, we measure it out too!  You do not want an overweight or obese lab.  

We only give treats for training.  Otherwise, if you feel the need to give your dog treats, there are healthy alternatives like carrots, green beans, and other healthy foods. Do you research though because some things like raisins, some peanut butters, grapes, etc are TOXIC to dogs.  When in doubt, as your vet. 

Exercise- This is huge.  Puppies and dogs need mental stimulation and physical exercise.  Bored dogs get into trouble.  For young puppies, mental stimulation is just as tiring as physical exercise and is safer for their growing bodies.  ****If you got a puppy to be a running or hiking buddy, that's great...but puppies cannot be exerted like that until they grow. It's not good for them.  Short walks and playtime is best at first.  

Training- Train with high value treats. Pieces of hot dog, chicken breast, cheese, etc.  You dog will be more attentive and work for those good treats harder if they are extra special!  If you do use training treats, they should be small and soft so you don't have to wait for them to chew them.  Make training sessions short. They have short attention spans. Stop on a good note. IF you see they are losing interest, stop!  Try to end with them doing what you ask and giving them a treat.  

*Dogs aren't born understanding English. The puppy has no idea at first what "no" means. It has to be taught.  Show them what you want from them and be patient.  

Puppy proof your house!!! - Make sure you have baby gates, a crate or pen, plenty of toys and things the puppy is allowed to chew on.  If you can't watch the puppy, put him/her in a crate or pen where they are safe and can't get into anything.  Lots of antlers, chew toys, etc are great to keep them busy!

We order almost everything from www.chewy.com  We do not get any "kickback" for saying that...we just love their site and everything is delivered FAST right to your door!  This includes the heavy bags of dog food! We got their toys and bones, etc from Chewy. 

Crate Training 101:

Crate training can be a nightmare at first, but it is a very important tool. We like the wire crates...for a lab 42" or 48" crates are great.  The ones that come with the dividers are nice so if you wish to make the area smaller for the dog you can.  Actually for the first time, we recently used a gated round pen and kept one of the puppies that we kept for ourselves in it.  We put a whelping pad liner down to protect the floor and then she was confined in there at night and when we couldn't watch her.  She had a small bed and some toys in there with her as well.  It worked great.  This can also be a good tool in addition to the crate.  You can use the round pen in the main living space when you can't watch your puppy when busy, and use the crate at night.  Regardless of what you use, you have to get them use to any area that they will be confined in.  

Crate training should be kept very positive. Introduce them to the crate slowly.  I've only met a handful of dogs that actually like the crate at first! Introduce your puppy to the crate slowly, put a blanket or towel in it and some of its toys.  Let them first explore it at their own pace without forcing it inside.  

*Never use your dogs crate to punish it. Your dog should consider its crate a happy, comfortable and safe place. If you use the crate to punish your dog, it will be fearful and anxious when left in it.

*We suggest that you do short training sessions over the first few days to a week until they get it if you can. You can get your puppy comfortable with the crate by throwing a treat in and allowing the dog to go in and out of the crate.  You can sit on the floor outside of the crate and put puppy in the crate.  Sit and pet them for a few minutes and then close the door.  Leave them in the crate for a minute or two and then open the door.  Slowly extend the time you let the dog in the crate while you are at home until it is comfortable being confined in the crate for up to an hour or more.  At first when left in the crate, they may scream and cry...but they have to get used to the fact that they are safe in there and that you are coming back for them.  Then let them back out. It's best to not let the dog out of the crate while its whining or barking; it should be completely calm before you release it. IF you let it out while it is making noise or throwing a fit, that teaches the dog that if it makes enough noise, it will be let out.  Do this several times a day until they get used to going in. Also using one word to associate them with the crate is best.  For example, "Kennel", "Bed", "Crate". 

*Never leave your dog in the crate for longer than it can hold its bladder or bowels.  Puppies can usually only hold it for 3-4 hours at first. An adult dog can hold it much longer.  

Some helpful tips are to cover the top and 3 sides, only leaving the front open so it's more like a den. This helps some puppies.  Giving them a few safe toys helps give them something to do.  Taking home a blanket or a towel that smells like their litter mates also helps with training.  

Dog owners will often tell you that their dogs continue to seek out their crates as "their space" long after housetraining has been accomplished.  Never let your puppy have full roam of the house until they are completely house trained and also not chewing anything!  It's for their safety and the safety of your house and belongings!  For a lab this can be age 2-3 years old!!!  

Expect some sleepless nights for the first week or two.  It's like having a baby. Patience is key!!!!

House Training 101:

As I just mentioned, having a new puppy in the house is like having a baby for awhile!  You WILL lose sleep!  It doesn't take long, luckily, to house train your pup.  We train them to use a dog door and get them used to going outside to do their business. We've found that 100% of the time, the puppies are going outside when they leave here.  Does this mean they won't have accidents for you? NO!  They are puppies and will have accidents. That is normal. Most of the time, when they potty in the house, it's our fault for not watching them closely enough.  If you can't watch the puppy and you're busy doing dishes or cooking dinner...the best thing to do is to crate them until you can watch them.  This really is best while potty training.  Always let them out as soon as they wake up in the morning and from naps (carry them if you have to, to get them out fast enough!).  Also after extensive play time is best to take them out.  Every half hour to an hour is best until they get it!  

*Consistency is key.  Try to get up at the same time each morning, and take your puppy outside right away.  Feed the puppy at the same time each day, and take out immediately after eating.  Watch for signs when the puppy is sniffing a lot, circling, etc.  Pay attention and you can a lot of times catch them before they go! Take them out often and praise them when they go!  Choose a key word like "go potty", "outside", etc.  Take your puppy to the same area to do their business as well, the odors will encourage it to use that spot again.  

*Never punish a dog by shoving its nose in the mess, or by hitting the dog.  This will only teach him/her fear.  If you find an accident in the house, but did not catch the puppy in the act, do not bother punishing it...the dog will not associate the punishment with the action and will be confused.  IF you catch the puppy going to the bathroom in the house, take it immediately outside and use your key word. Praise them when they go out where they are supposed to. 

*Schedule and consistency is everything.  Keep them in a solid routine. It is also best to pull the food and water as early as you can in the evening (7 pm or so if you go to bed around 10), this will help overnight potty need as well.  You can also teach them to ring a bell to go out.  Most of the time when puppies go in the house, it's because we, the humans, weren't paying close enough attention.  

Biting- this is a big one that a lot of our families contact me about.  Puppies bite.  They bite each other when they play and no matter how hard their siblings scream and cry, they don't let go.  They have to be taught not to bite.  DO IT RIGHT AWAY!!!! It's NOT ever cute.  If you don't stop this behavior immediately, you will have a big dog who bites and plays too rough.  IF the puppy is biting you, tell them a command like "NO BITE!".  Be stern, and do not point.  When you point, it makes them think it's ok to bite your finger.  You can always give a stern smack to the nose and say "NO BITE".  Keep doing this until they get it.  It is also good to redirect them by then giving them a toy or bone that they are allowed to chew on.  

Taking Your Puppy Home: 

Puppies go through a lot when they first go to their new homes.  Everything is new. They are with new people, new pets, new smells, etc.  It can sometimes be a culture shock.  Here are a few tips that may help ease your puppy into their new home:

1.  It's ok if you don't like the food we have them on and want to feed something different.  Just try not to change everything at once.  We suggest you wait a few weeks to a month to even change their food, but if you must, you can change it right away...just do it SLOWLY.  Start with mostly our food, and start slowly increasing the new food (maybe a small handful at a time) and decrease the old.  Stick with the same ratio for several days at a time...do not change the ratios every day!  Try to change the food over several weeks time, not in one week.  You will upset their little bellies.  Sometimes they have sensitive bellies too like people.  The food you may want to use may not agree with them (certain things like chicken) and they could have food allergies.  Try to stick with what works and don't give them any additives from anything else. (meaning do not put coconut oil on their food if they have sensitive bellies, etc)

2. Poop.  You can tell a lot from poop.  They may get diarrhea.  Usually I try to deworm them by 7 1/2 weeks old so it is done several days before they leave.  They are de-wormed at 2, 4 6, & 7 1/2-8 weeks old.  Depending on the stage of the worms, we don't always get them all.  Take a fecal sample in when you take your pup to the vet for their first visit.  Worms can cause loose stool.  Sometimes they just get upset bellies from all the change. That's ok too. Just make sure you are watching them and making sure they don't get dehydrated and make sure they are otherwise acting normal and are not lethargic.  If something seems off, call the vet. (See tips and advice page about coccidia)


****It is best not to take your puppy out in public until they are done with their booster shots.  They leave here with their first distemper shot.  That will NOT completely protect them!  It's best not to take them to pet stores, dog parks, etc until they are fully vaccinated. It's ok to let them around family dogs that are vaccinated and healthy. This is just until they are done with their series of shots. We suggest completely the distemper series obviously, the rabies needs done after 12 weeks of age....and we suggest the lyme series to help protect against Lymes Disease.  

We always have liquid Pepto on hand (for diarrhea),  Hydrogen Peroxide (to induce vomitting) and Benedryl (for bee stings or allergies) just in case of an emergency. It's also a good idea to have corn starch or styptic powder on hand if you clip the nails yourself. (to stop bleeding)

***We are NOT veterinarians.  Always consult your vet if you have questions.  Here is what we find useful to have on hand when owning a puppy/dog.  Click on the photo to enlarge.  


We use Purina Pro Plan Puppy for the puppies.  That is what they will leave on. If you choose to switch it, that's fine...just do it slowly. 

 <<<<<<here is the link for this food.

Our puppies leave completely weaned and eating dry food.  No need to add any water.  By the time they leave, they are eating twice a day.  We don't usually measure for that age...we just leave it down for about 15 minutes and then pick the food back up.  It's best to feed as early in the evening as possible so that the puppy has time to potty before bed.  When they first come home, they usually eat and immediately need to go out to potty.  Keep them at twice a day until they are probably 6 months old or so, then you can go down to once a day feedings.  


***In the summer, we have our adult dogs on the Victor Multi-Pro Dog Food (maintenance formula/yellow bag) because they need less protein during the hot weather months.   The Multi-Pro Maintenance formula (yellow bag) (is about $44.64 per 50 lb bag through chewy.com on auto ship.  It is highly digestible and requires less food intake to meet energy demands of active dogs.  It is made with premium quality beef, chicken, and pork meals for normally active dogs and off season/lower activity dogs.  It is made with gluten free grains. Victor makes a bunch of different formulas, this one is a good food and is cost effective for multiple dogs.  This formula is great for all of our pack.  The Professional formula (purple bag) tends to put weight on the dogs....so we stick to this formula usually unless they are nursing).  There is always a feeding table on the back of the bags.  We feed our adult dogs 4 cups or so per day, once a day.  

https://www.chewy.com/victor-multi-pro-dry-dog-food-30-lb/dp/129299  <<<<<<here is the link for this food.

https://www.chewy.com/purina-pro-plan-adult-shredded-blend/dp/52444 <<<<We also use this brand and different shredded flavors for our adults

*********We suggest getting a heartbeat puppy for your new member of the family.  It simulates mama or litter mates heart beats and helps them transition into their new homes.  They sell them on Amazon and Chewy.  Amazon actually has a few different breeds/color choices.

Chewy:  https://www.chewy.com/smart-pet-love-snuggle-puppy/dp/135566

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/SmartPetLove-Snuggle-Puppy-Behavioral-Brown/dp/B000C9YHFS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=heartbeat+puppy&qid=1562636024&s=gateway&sr=8-3


Sometimes people contact us after they take their puppy home with questions. We do our best to help you with the adjustment. Remember though, they are puppies- it's like having a new baby! Here are a few tips (remember we are NOT licensed vets and when it doubt, call your vet if you think there is something wrong.)

1. What food do I buy and d
o I add water to the food?
Victor Professional (purple bag).  The link is on the helpful links page. Do not add water.  We make sure they are completely weaned weeks before going home. They are on DRY food only with no need to add water.

2. How often should I feed?
I suggest 2 times a day. 3 if you would like and you are home to let them out often. I put the food down (do not measure or limit them at this age) for x amount of time and then let them eat as much as they'd like in that time frame. Take them out to potty immediately after. Limiting them to 2-3 feedings a day helps with the potty training as well. I'd start to measure the amount fed when they hit about 5-6 months old. You do not want a fat lab, it's bad for their joints. They will get fat easily. I suggest NO treats unless training and only give them the recommended amount of food once grown.

3. "Fido" has diarrhea or is vomiting.
If you are really alarmed, call the vet. But the question I ask you is....a) are they eating and drinking? b) are they peeing and pooping? c) are they active and acting like themselves? (this helps rule out blockages). If yes, they are acting fine, and you aren't overly alarmed....you can give some pepto to coat their belly to see if that helps. The other thing is to keep a close eye on them. When it doubt though, call a vet. They didn't leave here sick, so it has to be something they ate, change in environment, change in food, or maybe they screamed in a crate all day and just have themselves worked up).

Non-Medicinal Treatments for Diarrhea: (remember we are not veterinarians...always consult your vet if you have questions!!!!!)

If your puppy has liquid/water consistency to stools, and not solid or pudding type stools, it's time to contact a vet. Liquid stools are a sign of bad diarrhea, and could lead very quickly to dehydration. Dehydration can lead to death. So, totally liquid stools are not to be taken lightly. See or contact a vet.

But for "soft" stools, there "usually" is not a danger to the puppy requiring a vet trip. If you had soft stools, would you go to the doctor? If a puppy has "soft" stools, with a consistency like pudding, as long as the puppy is drinking fluids to prevent dehydration, the concern is much, much less.

Remember, I am not a vet and don't recommend anything. These are just things we've tried or heard of. These ideas might not fix the problem if the cause is a protozoa, but they can help control diarrhea in general:

  • Plain or vanilla yogurt (with cultures). 
  • Pepto Bismol (2 to 4 times daily for a couple days, 1 cc to 3 cc's each time, depending upon puppy's size...I have heard 1 tsp per 10 lbs is also a common dosage). Along with this, you can offer Pedialyte to help prevent dehydration.
  • Bland diet: rice flavored by boiled chicken for two days (bland foods). Boil rice with a chicken breast for 20 mins (1 c rice, 2 c water, 1 chicken breast). 
  • Canned pumpkin

About Coccidia  Pronunciation: (cock sid' ee uh)

I am not a veterinarian, and do not wish for you to use this information to diagnose a problem. Instead, it is offered as "food for thought" for responsible and educated dog owners. 

What is it?: Coccidia is a protozoa that causes diarrhea in puppies and that occurs usually when they are stressed.

What Causes the Symptoms? About 60% of all puppies have coccidia parasite in their digestive systems.  Many puppies are never physically affected by this protozoa.  Stress (such as when a puppy leaves its litter mates for a new home) can cause the coccidia to flourish, and this can lead to diarrhea. 

4. "Fido" is being too rough with my kids.
He/She is a PUPPY! They are KIDS! Please please please only let kids with a puppy when supervised. The puppies usually like to play rough and bite and play with their litter mates. This is normal. They need to be taught by you that this isn't acceptable behavior. If you cannot watch them and are busy, crate them! The crate is a valuable tool while house training and puppy training. You can't expect to leave young kids with a puppy and it all go ok all of the time. It's best to crate the dog!

When in doubt, please call your vet.  We are not veterinarians and these tips are just ideas.  Always consult a licensed veterinarian if you have questions and issues.  

*We have a special Facebook group page for OUR DOG FAMILIES ONLY called "Osman Labs One Big Dog Family".  There you can ask for advice, compare weights, share pics and videos, etc.  

Pick Up Information:

📍When you pick the puppy up, you’ll be getting a folder with the shot and deworming info in it, vet info, and AKC paperwork, as well as a frequently asked questions page. They will have had their first distemper shot, and were dewormed at 2,4,6,&8 weeks. I also have them pretreated to try to prevent coccidia. At 12 weeks old, they will need another distemper shot, rabies shot, and I would suggest the Lyme series.

📍Puppies are on Purina Pro Plan Puppy. No need to add water. I would feed twice a day. I don’t measure the amount. I would just put it down for “x” amount of time and then pick it up.

📍They don’t need to go to the vet until 12 weeks of age. They will need another distemper shot, rabies, and I would suggest the Lyme series.

📍The puppies will be bathed before they leave. You can put Frontline or Advantix II on them safely, the day after taking them home. Pay attention to the weight on the package as this is by weight.

💩 Taking new puppies home is very stressful. They have been dewormed with Nemex 2 (pyrantel pamoate) 4 times as well as Corid for coccidia. This doesn’t mean they won’t have worms. Hopefully they don’t, but they shed at different times and stages and sometimes you just don’t get them all. They also can be brought on by stress. Puppies are stressed when they first leave their littermates. If you’re seeing diarrhea, and it persists, you should take a stool sample to the vet to have a fecal test done.

Other Frequently Asked Questions

What size collar should I buy?

That's a hard one as all puppies leave at different sizes.  My best guess is buying a 10-14" collar to start.  

What size harness should I buy?

I honestly wouldn't spend your money on a harness yet.  They grow so fast.  I would teach them how to walk on a leash with their collar when young, and introduce a harness when they are a bit bigger.  IF you insist on having a harness right away, that's fine...but you'll have to wait until you get your puppy to try them on him or her.

*******The puppies will not take off from you when put down out of your arms.  They stay right by you, so there is no need to bring a collar and leash when you pick up your puppy.

Stopping to let them use the bathroom on your travels.  

You really don't need to.  They are usually pretty nervous and everything is new.  If it's a 2-3 hour drive, I wouldn't even bother to stop.  IF it's 6 hours, you can maybe stop once and see if they need to go.  Keep in mind that the puppy is also not fully vaccinated when they leave here, they only have their first distemper, so try to avoid puppy potty areas where a lot of other dogs use the bathroom. 

What size crate should I buy? 

42 or 48" are both good sizes. They usually come with dividers which help as well if you wish to use them.

Should I use pee pads?

NO! I hate those things haha.  I feel like they encourage the dog to go in the house.  Your best bet is to keep taking the puppy out right away and teach them to use the bathroom outside.

Do I need a crate for pickup? 

No.  If you have others coming with you, the puppy can be held safely.  Otherwise I usually put a towel on the front seat and sit them beside me.  It's always good to bring a towel along and a chew toy or two.  You can use a crate if you like, but the puppy may whine and bark because they are not used to it. It's best if you can avoid it.

Links of Products I Use & Love

Whelping Pad Liner- (waterproof) good for in crate or under a round pen.


Round Pen/ Gates

I love these.  We have 3 sets.  They are a bit pricey but they are solid and look nice.  They can also be attached together if you have multiple sets.  They are free standing.  




Hate Cleaning up Dog Poop???  Let Poop Genie do it for you!  

Home | Poop Genie

Poop Genie is a dog waste management company currently servicing Central and South Central Pennsylvania (Dauphin, Cumberland, and York Counties). 

They are a subscription-based service for dog owners and offer different packages to ensure your lawn is scooped with regularity. They also offer one-off scheduled visits with our Party Pooper and A La Poop programs.  

They offer referral rewards!  If you refer a friend, you can get a $50 chewy gift card!!! So please, if you decide to sign up with Poop Genie, please tell them Osman Labs sent you!!!!!

Referral Link: https://www.poopgenie.com/refer-a-friend



For Fun

Thank you for viewing our site! Enjoy some of these goofy pictures and a printable coloring pages for the kids! 

Osman Labs & Livestock




*We do NOT allow visitation, the information as to why is also listed on the website under policies.

Waiting lists will be done on a person by person basis.  Message us in regards to the waiting lists only if you're willing to wait as long as needed for a puppy.  Current availability will probably be 2022!!!



Please fill out this form if you'd like to ask any questions or would like to talk with us for more information.  

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BEFORE SENDING YOUR MESSAGE--- We are no longer breeding for silvers and charcoals at this time!!!  The wait for a puppy is A YEAR OR MORE! 

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